“Viticulture must be progressive and innovative, we can’t keep producing wine like we did 30 years ago”

Eugenio Sartori

"Viticulture must be progressive and innovative—we can’t keep producing wine like we did 30 years ago"

Interview with Eugenio Sartori, Commercial Consultant and Former Director of Vivai Cooperativi Rauscedo

Olint 42

You’ve experienced the transformation of grapevine nurseries firsthand. How has the sector evolved since you began your career?

I started working in grapevine nurseries in 1975. In 1984, I took over as director of Vivai Cooperativi Rauscedo, a position I held for 37 years. During that time, the sector went through a profound transformation. Back then, a major shift was beginning in viticulture, driven in part by changing wine consumption trends.

In what way has wine consumption changed?

For years, especially during the 1990s and 2000s, full-bodied red wines with high alcohol content were in fashion. That’s what people liked—especially the younger crowd. But today, it’s almost the opposite.

Nowadays, daily consumption is mostly limited to people over 40 or 50. Younger consumers drink wine mainly on weekends, occasionally, and they tend to prefer white wines, sparkling wines, or frizzantes with lower alcohol content, fresher profiles, good acidity, and easy drinkability. This shift demands a rethinking of the viticulture model: new varieties and new production methods.

What role does climate change play in this transformation?

It’s crucial. Climate change affects all wine-growing regions. That’s why we need varieties better adapted to the new conditions: extreme temperatures, droughts, and shifted ripening periods. We’re exploring varieties from Greece, like Agiorgitiko and Assyrtiko, as well as from Portugal, like Touriga Nacional, and from Italy, like Fiano and Vermentino. Additionally, we’ll need to adapt vineyard geography—what was once planted in the south may now make more sense further north.

And what about communication with the consumer?

That has changed too. In the past, consumers chose a wine based on its origin—its appellation or region. Today, they focus more on perceived quality, sensory experience, and the product’s authenticity. They want wines that tell a story, that are unique—and most importantly, sustainable.

Sustainability is definitely a hot topic. How does it influence varietal selection?

Significantly. Heavy use of pesticides is no longer acceptable to well-informed consumers. That’s why we’ve worked on developing disease-resistant varieties. In Italy, we’ve already registered 14 new resistant varieties, including Soreli, a fruity white that has been well received by younger consumers.

These varieties can reduce pesticide use by 50% to 80%, depending on the disease pressure in each area. We’re also working on other varieties with dual or triple genetic resistance to downy mildew, powdery mildew, black rot, and even nematode tolerance.

Are new rootstocks being developed as well?

Yes. We’ve partnered with the University of Milan to promote the M series: M1, M2, M3, and M4. We’re currently producing around 4 million cuttings, which equals about 2 to 2.5 million plants. The M2, for example, is a strong alternative to 110 Richter or 1103 Paulsen. It offers high tolerance to drought and salinity, and competes with 140 Ruggeri in arid areas. M1 and M2 are less vigorous, making them ideal for high-density plantings (5,000–7,000 plants/ha). They also have good resistance to active lime. But that’s not enough. We’re continuing to research new rootstock genotypes better suited to the future of viticulture, although their development requires 3 to 5 years of validation..

What are the main challenges facing the wine industry?

Viticulture must be progressive and innovative. We need to change not only the varieties but also the production structures. The European system is too rigid. We need more flexibility. Wine is made to be sold, not stored or sent off for research.

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